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到西津渡這天,遊人甚少。
走過別有風情的伯先路,走進西津渡,直到第二道「同登覺路」的券門前才看見古樸玲瓏的過街白塔。逼仄的小路、青磚建築、青石路,本來只打算匆匆而過,卻臨時決定留宿一晚。
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikscWWauHgaYwqeO-6DLkene8SQLxdelS8TA2USC4-izblVKZ9OFhYBRb8AkJCRlaanM6lAdE8eppbmaRywrnxnlsLURk_yRmaqnACeDviYwNM4wcrr8EuDkgiQHUrWiJvoS_UKMjlDno/s480/02.jpg)
穿過大西路兩側的梧桐樹下,終於看見西津渡街的指標。
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjDFBMkx-8Bp6vAKkP_jbAG05YpCFDzL-F0DT7HzykaIkr5bpMxwMdRnPTJ6uQw88nsbLBVgsf1R7kOG0NeSOOO0gSXtRXWoxyAvK2e5otkGwsuw2J4JZMANcM7QgXi_683JhymJMx9u4/s480/03.jpg)
在鎮江博物館旁,有一條台階路。走上階梯,就走進西津渡街的東券門。
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimUGI4ocvv41jHydKZKU7Cys5xZpgcmQwPONFScys7YCyMfWVsctfUDwh-FZy7dKAoT27qXFmE0j8gDohyphenhypheniN8g7DUyJgvGrdqFgBkyajyjQfLHhmmk8NTNPtVIsGR7yVmN3lfDe3GwJTo/s480/04.jpg)
這裡是觀音洞一條街、小碼頭一條街、西津渡街。從香爐旁另一個拱門走下去,即昔稱的五十三坡。
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZOCNp1xVinPGtA_uTxDoApNRkvNHzu4jchxH0ynkUX1b5JZnpP7kSP3gkt8IDt0tbaryTsz2HkdmKPpTIiD0XN44bEKEuUL1EvQwmH_yZJjBx10OjwbR_jDzFqM9AntMFOnqynkZh3o4/s480/05.jpg)
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-tIP-gnRfDz29xMjuTEf_-THar2Ur31-_K2RY1G3mNTvpqITPMqUERBxoLrRhzAZROWXKNYd9EaXow2WTgvqUt4ZXwo8p2gmvzvGwL5sltlvOosd2mEftxZb7jiqseUecfJDeBP6ZEdI/s480/06.jpg)
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第二次鴉片戰爭失敗後,鎮江成為對外開放的通商口岸,這一帶被劃為英國租界,並在此興建了英國領事館。光緒15年(1889年)因中國小販被英人毆打,憤怒的民眾焚燬原領事館,清政府賠款建了現在的領事館,上端書有「1890」字樣。
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC2bzw8iI3rJGeHSdI_bEVoUaKwXhKMJFM2P4OB09tavW4-j3qKAJEQS8x3hRGANSPkYsnD_5FRyz7OQGJLhY0W94rk6b9KeZ3PzAIxkP6LIuYMoimS6exm24kFHurfMAgFMZUASa2LAI/s480/08.jpg)
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0a3dXyWmebhBxp4BbLSqZLT_lPWfaPjLRlw5zR5Pqd67tqMEZGUMXjcZl7KE_0TCvbHRQwdA7pm5JEziPopm2cJJl6uTLzej3HzdS3ELwM1aPeo9qUJQcc_Wf5Z80_VoPluilwqFy7Ck/s480/09.jpg)
券門上懸掛著「同登覺路」,宗教意味濃厚。
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj42Vnsfti3B5n0hjhrGaGc4NsE6UGXtx1g7fqqy4KJzcLhOixD7ZgUkCwsvZU4RKL-_J7RfMx_k8HTJRahXEEMcxLGT83te1onJktuRsXpdywQLwAfnsDAcq3tPtdkO9c5_MK1vP28Idk/s480/11.jpg)
昭關石塔的兩側一為救生會,一為觀音洞。進去參觀要買門票。售票點很少,好不容易找到售票點,售票員又失蹤了,乾脆逛街就好。
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs3Ty0VuHBlafSLRfncoKfK_P4PzmRsiduWjykB3UufShAFr7Kyl-fjY7v_MeM0yxGD4veNAyGt-e0ScYUa52ftb94sGkhZ9bD0q4txfjqb7YJcn83aP77WQi4iEMcwE-G9_Vjq0meGHw/s480/12.jpg)
這條街的前身本來就是雲台山麓的一段棧道,石塔位於相對高處,但是不論從那邊走過來,都無法一眼就望見這座石塔。非要走到最近的券門,石塔才暮然出現眼前,讓人心生敬畏。
這座昭關石塔建於元末,距今已有六百多年,是中國唯一一座保存完好的元代過街石塔。
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuHykzL0C0dWMrY4OqZHrbUHDD75iKbWxtk22ZHdEWMPXfO5iE76GVtim7dRLAAwAS9Sk0dJvZtsrydXY-IXpZyeykATRm46aE0ox7r8SsTPmpHE7iGySS-llrzty4ckAui_w4hEqKrzY/s480/13.jpg)
觀音洞。最早建於宋代,清咸豐年間重修。
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8mCKXcdlADFKJJia_4XtGCzHxksFVmkuE6OMdvK4m7EptEtcKWgAWCUv1xqLBbstHl0JfMqtOWEvG_QynPlHMwXX9LETcmETl2eH9fBc8aLO4kcMsFDvspJ4gm6xlcLysy44_UBynC7U/s480/14.jpg)
<走在老街上的老人>
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<拍婚紗的新人>圖片背景的鐵柱宮,是一間道教寺廟。
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![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJrGxugjE8X3v9bNuKpF4phLHa4NfoBimKbJIaYgiQlnQ7jQ49T2bvJ8YcmJLn8xS_eiiQIF_E4Qs0R9XgNF4NeBiR_gox_BCXLZbWuXSfzq09AD_m-yhNGa1xJxvC3JqPszAh01cPSEo/s480/17.jpg)
老街旁的臨街建築,多是清末民初重建,以木架構為主的商舖。樓下開店、樓上居住,或是前面開店、後面居住。
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沿著渡口走上來的高台上,曾有一棟著名的客棧:小山樓。後唐詩人張祜有詩云:金陵津渡小山樓,一宿行人自可愁。潮落夜江斜月裏,兩三星火是瓜洲。
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待渡亭。
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPOLG05IXTxQhGst8cS78n5Tcg09zi5wuHOdtKTCuyH0mB3er-NTFTzATPpDtz1hzHNjItlCuufQ4uPzS8_US87K2t7EED4yDUmCPC2ChelRBpM6uuaFvoR80lCpo7pH0mTG57Yg0yEFs/s480/20.jpg)
從待渡亭往下走,即是昔日的小碼頭,但是滄海桑田,原來的小碼頭邊已是一條大馬路,不見長江水。
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7jsJgG3o7izcXlS5eN4XXUE2pn0OCGZ1ff-D_ZVBe60LCkcZJfX9iNH3ETiChHmcxFqYe0-odQ9xI941vDkCtgdglcc43ZW-POnxAwDc-pVUThNx7SLZLnRlsjktC-1QaGdPMLyLL3m0/s480/21.jpg)
<駕車駛過小碼頭街>
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs5Iu78OZ-oCcZ9Id-ckljPxSrNahF4LgNS1rHfQPA0xbsoJg7SB5NNjitOUPdyWwIs5Hh5HWhDiiTzIkda2CFmZNtIh-N-7YH9HfAC05Y7seQclyQM61t1hWCUU25_JDDWvY5pmHZfbg/s480/22.jpg)
<狀元餅店>門口還是古老的木制排門。
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_AZOw_SQKqeJ2-qiQCdasn_jtfbHns5bfzJBjxFUIVRWmp5tL6PINKzOgfMPVRrAv7CQqcwQOHag-WB7NwR3CkQmGVi02d18Nus8s1Hdt2yrfSBzncNW5_booWgjUApYfhlX6iGn83sY/s480/22a.jpg)
<狀元餅店>
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-sIrWAT06s6KBXsAJ8xl9FjWaPKOvraA2xWCTERTE8xHKmNIoz5da5vloVpGXTv-mY4nLsRPVBZUX_IAdyjbDJSH1IINoNLfHg6kHt42OTOUUMQZsgvom2-r6JejnWqaoG7OU9nHWVFk/s480/23.jpg)
空地末端的二層老宅,高懸著「鎮遠鏢局」的匾額,其實就是鎮江小山樓國際青年旅社的所在。
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvhpNsPWI4gEgMUOIo5FGud15JWzA4lDNdni_Bhk8Os4d8-1h7HBuiyL45PDQwxX9H6ZsoGzq4F8JzPYVuWgyLA218LzGRs_abg5Jg2vN3GZi_elNGhhqhCFjbHFziTY39lhX6Fua5KXE/s480/23a.jpg)
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS0KfXITUq81oWdudn7ganBUgjGGFLvL_xgqMK16BRTdcnaK-PgC-4NQpBYoQnSiWdv0cv1_BUxyDxm9YqlYjKoJW2stteJjvPk0t8Zcbeg2Qnt0qh-GNnwQd1rUkmghBkDszFh4NGWsA/s480/24.jpg)
小碼頭街西端的人家,未經改造,還留有鋁門窗。
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH8vRyGHNoKjXuvCoVgbV-XJS4tGIZO88gBjVyzPz_JGnGDRNRdLKCpYQwpT0uxuznoZEkLcA_X_3EchcOSl-OKmEhPjpLodw4NJ3FmCCU6w5d2k4GV_2tSwN7m7ag6S6ClBVGG9fzZUw/s480/26.jpg)
這種生活化的場景也是西津渡景區的一部份。
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiveIW13wAkg3q254ohj7N-0Rc8k6iiTB15N2l4mIBIJkHdeH2iZBbKqGWV7STpVO7u8116f7c0TN_GQX1DwL8i9mDHHtWOA1hnqUMQoyqLgt6CGdOQtdM7p7Np0NXo7zX5_Rlr8xAbqD4/s480/27.jpg)
旗幟跟燈籠看起來很熱鬧,不過也就只有旗幟跟燈籠。老實說,這真是一條不怎麼商業化的老街。
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfAWaGt5eGq35BPUNXCVhLdVueGHGXPaOGyr2biE_ZsB4g4RC7NhEgmNdQoSixexarYTx07vzViZAo3U_CkArjgfb2zKHB0k1IgRYPlXNX9LSXIc3jEKNnIOyrUChgemxWu96f1ywmUAs/s480/28.jpg)
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIUZf6u3PfUc43gqepEiW6EdbV74Z1wjEAfzNS7adq92ZsuNgel6yTsH1ftcCVCZgMMg_VBnfq2OnIYFdkt8V2t0DMI6z9qd9FZ5-_zBdFszUXb-8YewGNonPjVr25fQjAz-y1thpRCQo/s480/29.jpg)
長安里的門樓和馬頭牆。
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJA-DISrY79JoEcNwsC6onskeO9N61MJ9HV4HWkVowg25rZQhKaC7aJdQT00J_VBBFnrLh5M3jO9RKOfefizNl3xtlm4Ld5To5fb9EPSLWdOGqszpCgCyhcOz-CZrOWFHd5mxFQ9s272k/s480/30.jpg)
尚待整修的老宅。
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFDofZkdxHdjgzDJ2ufR0grF9ZdubX-Lqb5p6UvwAshgQ-QUIiWZ6WNlBTqjyB3HSASywiMtx9oX2Ui5jc1hepvWkYdKJABVQEm_sdMtqQIyw5xLs9j6W82R39P-A0AJ1ZQO36utN0C-I/s480/31.jpg)
夜裡的西津渡,沒有遊客,很靜,很靜。單眼的喀匝喀匝聲,驚動了住戶,大娘開門一探究竟,我停了下來,對她微笑,大娘面無表情得又闔上了木門。
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