【食記】北京,皇家冰窖小院
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyCQBGFY9f56nuiR9x91geT0wvs-ekyJpcleIAJT-_KcdtJYl2m8dIbGm_8Q01CHQO-Wjod8saCkPtSY7YVoPZND9Hun72vlpiNANaknAIs2bXzHIrHUoMKELdRNzskAaasfrmZB2Ub7o/s550/01.jpg)
景山公園北邊的恭儉胡同內有一座老冰窖,冰窖前的小院開了家的餐廳,賣北京菜,但是吃起來跟一般的北京菜不太一樣,味道沒那麼重,我們今天吃的幾道菜還正好都偏甜。
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf-aQHuVXhEuTHnFrkuxe9Y2n0i_jx7h2IzxbkdjE_dbtlNWAghn6yYxl6L90ViHo-MuB3iBS1iHKMIfmN_cn6SrnCZEWX5fZgZbZE746Bvq05ABKuMYnQ4r2op4biCid_5rOcMUg8nEc/s480/02.jpg)
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjieDxJdQkOKZb6hSWis7nAIm4hMfR6DN1PriWXpVom1ZfvbMaXp4TRd2VMQATp7fW_R6GRxvLl0UFL_HA1kSnSZj-ekieY7-nLFullLmPm2YpCtc7fTqiBSpbXcWzyDfqFKpsDIsZgo_8/s480/03.jpg)
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9BidzmSPzCU8BNdZ5adiwTKFYMXgNpufuHxmRX4ndkcDTVu0w-dWi6rRc_KJjBq5q60qEu5DR-C3Ux_pwfMTMGWLp8m7kCLy7zRsYa23GkMzD8ilk17gxm9EsphFMrnYbOephsv5RneI/s480/04.jpg)
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_b550x0BD3R08wrqdWFkF-xo_SGABw03DT8QXT2iUVPSfNKEzYhn_AvrGHRBnZjdKiwZYdAvk3-2kDMtVmt8kLmxj_xvO_CvpQboNIgeta6bWrT83LOl_DhSwH0mrxZz16kJ3Gln0Iak/s480/05.jpg)
這次是買了團購券來的,所以菜餚不是我們點的,就是團購裡面配好的。
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQc89JOUyOWrSmX4bZIFvs3UbtICRQyDplIKl7NveYjizSQan9kq-rMSoxzAnyop3DbBbHP_TF90erh2HaWAps0UVBsmd5MPR_V5zrdBTOo3YWpDID8nN5fvdWJ713Km48uqs9kJuPQrs/s480/06.jpg)
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi28mnbpFpARhGL454eEFIHefMtxBsFXEDbkXOeChYb_6Euw-zgJNirb7aRVbuC0pTJkmSHVviwU3WXTSkVF-LhE51h9Gz5XN6SR1kdIkpgoPDpJACNTxIHo1MwOETVvdPHt_o-LFJaWFk/s480/07.jpg)
這不是櫻桃,而是海棠果。據說老北京的冬天常有小販沿街叫賣凍海棠,現在已經看不見了。秋收的海棠果吃起來酸澀,通常要會放到大雪過後,果子結凍後才吃。
凍凍的海棠,味道不是很強烈,帶點酸、帶點甜,脆脆的口感。因為要凍過才好吃,所以很適合在冰窖小院品嚐吧。
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZa7Frp9WtYtx6r_QZa_gnXM_ktVpeIBzgeuVG1Hu9J7SgHDId8DMcTnllbNb8AHLQ-KOnHFuHhA07PRaW9x8ztM0TETEFY-vUbrgm5wP5KdkjvS1tcLrV-joKUJFkL8fifmd4er5YOSk/s480/08.jpg)
醬料看起來很濃稠,但是吃起來口味卻不重,有點甜味。(其實我心裡有「ㄟ」一聲,以台灣的標準都覺得可以再加重調味)。這條魚的刺蠻多的,挑得很辛苦。以前小毛每次吃到刺多的魚都會一直抱怨,我後來才想起來問他那天怎麼都沒聽到他抱怨?他才跟我說,因為魚刺被煮得軟而綿,所以他都吞掉了!!!
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTVF2No6Li9GrEcq1vrVzHS5VKTyU9Kf3Xq5DbMHgJ44XWlQ5ex7J-u0vC9q8KDUh_bZ_gJxQCGIdchFvgBs1ugn0_U6IE2AshcsYJbpAtg7GI4iwCoZ1R9GluxhxvYSHiDZ3brM8J7iw/s480/09.jpg)
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJjLPZdKyQBilSrgUO9UWaxjQGRoZhYCmfDvnpP30RTrb_3gvrmmVfaCQ2npnQbDYaH4z6hNQRODSSRLdFvRILFLYjVIbEkL_Rsu3W1U0Ka6OZ9PNRbES6D0snm4edtNwlsuoQLvBW1FQ/s480/10.jpg)
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGpNU8yhIw98BjP1YXkAGB-pU-4sMmUUprgmr4911PEIWM1SJUwid77MAhvwM6S4-g5pHJ8i4V1jHrVM5HYRWwX2tAcu3ImEEDtwaiVWZG1lxJBgc2nX0RU0NpOLmJhIQt4F3rvmTY2cY/s480/11.jpg)
在北京吃過的餅,我大部分都不太喜歡。可能是因為一般的北京菜味道偏重,要配菜或沾醬吃,所以各種餅吃起來都沒什麼味道。不過這個玫瑰餅讓人蠻驚豔的,簡介說裡面的餡料用的是妙峰山野玫瑰醃製的玫瑰醬,吃起來有點像豆沙,帶著濃濃的玫瑰香味。
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAyuxFj2253t1aVStbYo_Smhei0gk5DfWtW9XktGGTlow7r0cjqm5MXe8w5zfmTChaihs_YNhaNfPAbgiZzutZy4pMSvZIUxt6MKK6jo88zTJboE1bVm7nmeCL07sfwHUaENfmTxO9J0k/s480/12.jpg)
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOUCwJgh8K-FGRPeadXFs1xZuxxbKGZMGiDQxNhraM6GRF6-95nKut-k4cHMa4-BFszTkzBm1VssJfoBzyPlM41ngtvqVULd2xUfTX4Z0SoL2jGb5I8LmuDJfONh62SGgBtXdBHI26zt0/s480/13.jpg)
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ1nGHZQ5wEkiPqH6MTzh-gYUhorlE7abuSrOuAsfst7MYWJm6jEjbRezyWk94P977R6A3HqjWNr-6xVEvoIf5ze7VGOWs8N1vddWZiUAekJ29YnmwZ4960-g6ukDnaNfppbDcCNxMLvI/s480/14.jpg)
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVqaZT_z6hi5cbgtDKiqlDtw6R1VBEqacJX26iCdBUidX4IaCM2bEinUygxwDanqli84ToqA3PJM2ZnUzSywkVUghLYhU8wWCPih42mBp6nQQJfEaLq3DUWwPjHeXCHSx1RsaBD06zPo4/s480/15.jpg)
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTehQ5uTC22Xv9fYAJfG-4_s8EcP8M8l7-cvTvQ13MfuXT9NPaGvK542ozHTX0Q4JCofzulAKY3NG3Y66LEN-Ln1iCTvAldOGCG4wEJs5hFphVDd9nBCdvx3Fep3KHuPsjwn1fA08bYhM/s480/16.jpg)
清朝時私人不得私設冰窖,只有供應宮廷生活和祭祀用的官窖,跟少數鐵帽子被允許設府窖,冰窖有磚窖和土窖兩種,冰質有分高下。民國以後,開始出現民間私窖,大部分是土窖。
北京的文物保護單位中有兩個冰窖,一個是位於雪池胡同的雪池冰窖,另一個就是這裡的恭儉冰窖。
關於恭儉冰窖的歷史,網路上有兩種說法,其一是恭儉冰窖跟雪池冰窖一樣都是皇家冰窖。恭儉胡同在明代是內宮監的所在,明宮史記載內官監衙門內就有一個冰窖,清代可能重修過。另一個說法是,這個冰窖建於民國21年(也有說是清末),當時官窖已開放民營,承租雪池冰窖的王德山在恭儉胡同興建了與雪池冰窖相似的私人冰窖,名為德順冰窖。
我不知道那個說法為真,不過冰窖內現在展示著一些皇家用的黃琉璃瓦,並說恭儉冰窖的磚「據說」是清朝官窰西通合窰燒制的。既然西通合磚上有銘文「西通合窰」,不是取一個磚來看就可以真相大白嗎?
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxYYjfAM-euISz7bjwXVMjA3JTeTh4nh4RUWNj6Qj0YChBqeHfkF0poFImvVTLQX-r7PHAJR8lYWx3JiIrt6Wdch_F5xkRSZbQp7F1ywH32wfubcaUUqMx3H8OlYbxoAJJgM32yIJcs-s/s480/17.jpg)
圖中的木頭小門,是從外面拉冰入窖的入口。那個位置應該就是現在的北海北夾道。
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4qOKgX4Nf2NZH7Cpc3rcpths858uWmGTfOrQVHqNHnlH9TNw09nHdT1r2yMTbQePLSkCng6K3WDd-KdUQqyGWIZo_5I2wf90R4NKDarkGio4oSxz9zUKTW2WAZDFBhyphenhyphenQWP_YBS5xSRm8/s480/18.jpg)
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3xZeA8QHwmzqsmsPFwFDmHNlM8H1XgPfaTQbSoP5Kyk5xlpoGcOySG0CJqPiS3_LIOgKpAZiDyiWn5_iXkTbMCMGEMszBxt0m356oVrZr-9LfOLXqJ2UB79no6YBixzmwgjYC_WR4kus/s480/19.jpg)
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6ln4ouPqCquBJWTxKfxOcVIrPKA0H5GNpD7cHYFMxZJyxzMKrwyIX-5RKrTAOmNlGsXyzJtSTh44_YIGVBMfGpnzLJ4jtZC8eoDtA7lFCwKRwbcqgbuOaFEKc66ebibn28wD9fhjkjXY/s480/20.jpg)
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwBaO9uS68PpW1NvMGgk1FmMER5wlZz-lYTeLJE7jrd-H7EaZhpCc4unWbpXWumCu331uDAu7V2rlimOILENIPyqocpXROU4mNHo4yVx8u6vJhBEOdu9T6SQ8xQze82iH4YVdKVuWDvrw/s480/21.jpg)
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAIdzbho88sdWkiicWKwgHo-CUzYbNJUGWPq-G115V6putXO8BPtk0w17Re8L4DvGhTNB6y8vZbZAUAANthZtJIvaYVg2YMeWW4dFZpXwi1LGjkmpb__UlTB7l_xE6HhY35OhvF6vRapY/s480/22.jpg)
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjzyHYTskmA0taEHm4yPxC9gEvtKFW92c5H9_0REDIiXcPXnHXl7Zni3vLUgJzh-2kL2X1CSSE4Or2XXSOiOjGsHGl8-UHOzf_LlOvoId4YC5bP1rhDm5bQ7NpxRqIF4aVhAgzFgmJgBw/s480/23.jpg)
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtMqbTwMkxeCQucWo9CgwKOXLo0vptgr1N9CKSEETivHla81brMjUJSb659vZ1wCdvA29Ti_pvOWctI1dTRHk3dd-qFgBCLTHLQMlnrKCYof7DaAVDzc3o7rgNzqkDFK4AP7PaiPkqDzY/s480/23a.jpg)
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx2B2Crc_NJP-Egj5ufDFMVhVvok29WwB85f0vrZVKcJ1DeCT_y28bGBJC1QrwTLIas6ihigwXlhaYc96aN32ERtlCVIbShoLmlgZKRyqmfN8-xVKednnTVubRhDhyphenhyphen0uTLBVn0s2PcF5k/s480/24.jpg)
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeGbNdL-lB5cDTp3FVydkPBmG-Jl6fXS5aBTm0wVsJ_mqyWs0Ht1rKzWHVd-KUDn981xMWziNSILB1HOOEUOianT9j0yIueaLXcZU866lgEhcK2JIQsVMgsFEf1DwEoQ0NYGwu_-Hxaak/s480/25.jpg)
在較大的地圖上查看皇家冰窖小院
google map是我們的好朋友。雖然顯示地名的地圖跟衛星圖對不起來,但是從衛星圖上可以從空中俯瞰冰窖的樣貌。
【延伸閱讀】
藏冰御夏—窖藏的舊京特權
餐廳名稱:皇家冰窖小院
用餐時間:2011年1月
地址:中國北京市西城區恭儉胡同五巷五號
電話:86 10 64011358
網站:http://bjhyzb.blogbus.com/
哇~~又上了一課
回覆刪除原來有冰窖這種東西啊......