越南縱貫線(四):會安到峴港的循環巴士
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一片擋風玻璃,隔出了兩個世界。
車窗外,是不斷變化形式的民居和墳墓,綠油油的稻田,綿延不絕的海岸線。你看得到路邊喝咖啡聊天的男人,戴斗笠沿街走賣的女子,穿著奧黛騎單車的女學生,卻聽不見他們的聲音。
車廂內,坐著的全是來自世界各地的背包客,三三兩兩說著他們自己國家的語言,工作人員是越南人,卻只對你說英語。有的人跟你一樣,看著窗外這部無聲的越南電影,有的人在看書、在沈睡,等待從上個旅遊城市轉換到下一個。
這跟我想像的不一樣。我想要靠近當地人的生活,而不是永遠站在生活的另一邊。所以,我決定從會安開始,只搭乘當地人的交通工具。
會安的下一站,是順化。
峴港到順化間的火車會翻越海雲嶺,是從西貢到河內的統一鐵路中唯一的山區路線,有絕美的海岸景觀。但是在會安詢問了好多家旅行社,都無法提前代購峴港到順化間的火車票,不知道直接去買不買得到座位。更重要的是,我還必須先解決從會安到峴港的交通。
我這次去越南,帶的是簡體中文版的走遍全球系列,越南那本。這本書內容詳細,但是部分地名和店名都直接翻譯成中文,沒有對照的原文,這在越南當地根本行不通,當地的路標就是只有越南文而沒有中文。
書中提到,每天5:00~18:00間有峴港到會安(經五行山)的專線循環巴士運營,巴士車身為為黃色和橙色條紋圖案,除此以外,還有一種通體黃色的巴士可以前往峴港。但問題在,內文中提到通往峴港的巴士「在城區北側的太菲安路上的巴士總站上車」,但書中地圖上根本沒有太菲安路,也沒有標出巴士總站的位置,只有一個巴斯德巴士總站的指標,我不知道這兩個是否相同。
其實,搭Open Bus是最簡單的方式,從會安到順化只要60000 VND(U$3),就算我非要搭火車,應該也可以中途在峴港下車,我一度考慮是否直接買Open Bus的車票就好。
就在這個時候,我看見了傳說中的黃橘車身巴士。
就在Sinh Café所在的Hai Ba Trung St.上。車子正向左轉。我想了一秒,立刻騎著我的自行車,調頭,追!
追逐風 追逐巴士 在會安的大道上
追逐我的理想 我的方向 就在前方
我邊哼著周華建的「心的方向」,邊驅車急追。從旅館街、文廟、教堂,一直追到老街的西側,終於再也看不見車子的蹤影。
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沿著Sinh Café所在的Hai Ba Trung St.往北走,到Le Hong Phong St.路口向左轉,再騎300公尺就是「巴斯德巴士總站」,也就是Lonely Planet:Vietnam地圖上的Northern Bus Station。
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越南文的Bên Xe Buýt就是公共汽車站的意思,記住這個名詞,會讓你的旅行方便很多。
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我試著詢問坐在旁邊用餐的男子,最早一般車是幾點開。可惜我們雞同鴨講,比手劃腳了半天,他還是不懂我的意思,只是不斷用手指著巴士說「Da Nang、Da Nang」。
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(下有送葬隊伍,不喜勿入)
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下車的時候,我特地觀察了一下。繫車的繩子似乎本來就是綁在那個位置,看來是我自己挑到不好的座位。
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我循著妳的網誌,也找到了這個公車總站呢
回覆刪除真開心
但現在票價漲到15,000了~~
不到一年就漲了50%.....
回覆刪除唉,我被騙了,我在那個公車站明明看到票價是15,000
回覆刪除但我上車後,那黑心的車掌先生竟然叫我交50,000車費
唉........越南人真是很愛騙騙騙啊~~
你應該準備好零錢直接拿給他,然後他跟你說別的話都假裝聽不懂
回覆刪除嗯~~這也許是個好方法
回覆刪除但我想越南不會想再去了
被騙得好累又好無奈~~
我的運氣比較好吧,在越南一路上都遇到好人。
回覆刪除回來之後我一直好想念越南,好想再找時間過去。