看海的日子:MuiNe漁市
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在MuiNe(美奈/泥角/內角)的短短三天,來了四趟漁市。但到了離開的那天還覺得依依不捨,如果不用離開該有多好。
網路攻略說,MuiNe漁村的最佳拍攝時間是早上八點之前,以及黃昏時的落日餘暉。
第一天傍晚,在MuiNe大街招了1路公車,穿過樹林旁有著濃濃魚露味的小村,沿著海岸公路,過了一處上坡,遠遠就看到高高的堤防下那一片海灣裡有著數以百計的船隻,海灣的另一側緩坡上座落著各種粉嫩顏色的小房子。
在台灣去過的漁港都是平面的。我心裡想著漁村,理所當然認為應該有村莊的房舍也有漁船,那應該在海灣的另一邊吧。我繼續搭公車,前行。
路旁的房舍越來越密集,海,看不見了。我不知道該坐到哪一站。公車裡,不論是司機、售票小姐還是乘客,沒有人可以跟我溝通,只能靠直覺猜想。到了MuiNe市場前,好熱鬧,下課的孩子蜂擁而上,對街有幾個背著相機的白人遊客正在跟小販攀談,也許是這裡。下車,往海岸方向的小巷鑽去。
巷道很小,路旁的平房卻家家都有自己的小院子。院子通常種一棵樹,有一個小小的高架祭壇,地板鋪著磁磚,沒有堆積任何雜物,有些人家還多放上幾盆翠綠的盆栽,正開著小花。院子裡的平房都留有平台,有的掛上了單色的布縵,隨風緩緩飄動,讓我不禁放慢腳步。走到巷底的丁字路口,三四位婦人坐在小凳子上聊天,疑惑地看著我的到來。左看右看,不知該往何處。比手劃腳加上畫圖,終於確定從這裡到不了海邊,只好折返。
看起來很近的漁村,卻怎麼找也到不了。不甘心就這麼回去,索性搭了公車回到剛剛高高的堤防邊,看海。
夜色低沈。我卻不是唯一一個坐在堤防上看海的人。
月光照在海面上,燐光點點。海灣深處,停泊著很多像小小生日蛋糕的船隻,靜靜地,彷彿在等待些什麼。海裡有一個人,雙手握著木槳,站在小小的圓船內,或者應該說大大的籮筐裡,邊轉邊破浪前行,直到完全沒入無盡的夜色裡。
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回旅館查了很多網路文章跟照片,才發現原來堤防下的那段沙灘就是漁市的所在。這裡的水域淺,大船無法靠岸,漁民以籮筐船作為接駁,在岸上進行漁獲交易。
漁民夜間捕魚,每日早上八點前,是漁市最熱絡的時候。可以看到漁婦走進海裡,等待滿載而歸的親人。雖然在MuiNe的兩天我都起了個大早,但第一天浪費很多時間在跟旅館租自行車,第二天又被冥頑不化的公車擺了一道,總之兩天早晨我都是超過八點才抵達漁市。
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在海邊,我一直盯著那些破浪而出又滿載而歸的小船,百看不膩。
我不清楚人工協助籮筐船的前行是不是該用「划」這個動詞,握著木槳的漁夫,看起來只是在同一個位置左轉右轉,小船竟然就神奇地不斷向前推進。
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除了籮筐船,漁市岸邊最多的就是這種傳統木船。兩頭尖尖的木船,有著優美的弧線。船隻維持著木材的原色,只在兩側的弧線上端塗上黃色的線條。船頭的紅色區塊內,繪著兩隻長橢圓形的眼睛。這些小船的長相跟鄰近國家的人民一樣,雖然相距不遠,但是一國一地的長相似乎就有著某種相似的特點,MuiNe的傳統木船是屬於可愛的瞇瞇眼。
木船頭頂的內側頂著一塊元寶狀的紅色木板,中間繪著太極圖樣,不知代表什麼。
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魚販子開來卡車到岸邊收貨。可見除了堤防上的階梯外,一定還有其他路可以通到這裡。
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這張圖可以看到木船尾端有著螺旋槳。
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我光著一隻腳,從沙灘走上階梯,回到公路等車。從柏油路、泥土路、水泥路、草地、磁磚地,好不容易才走回暫居的小窩。
當我站在路邊等公車時,好幾輛迎面而來的單車騎士和摩托騎士,先是睜大眼睛,接著控制不住自己的嘴角。有兩位騎士熱情得用手不斷指著我的腳丫子,應該是在提醒我注意自己的鞋子不見了。我尷尬地對著他們傻笑,心裡困惑:難道這世上真有人可以迷糊到掉了一隻鞋子而不自覺嗎?
我彆扭地轉頭,覺得自己糗斃了。
轉念一想,今天的我應該帶給MuiNe人很多歡樂。就像我愛MuiNe一樣,MuiNe也愛我吧。我希望。
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIZg6-z75dhgJqklA8Mx6sEmcnhffebIG5tkHJOgHIRVWMtIvq40GRUZBF9Xx-p31B8uWcP2rIz1jM5NkrTb_EThwisNDbNbIfjr10CZ-Jfk_BuEohOOHj8it2Vi3d_6F_Gyi_z4ZsKEo/s480/44.jpg)
更多MuiNe漁市的照片~
照片很漂亮。
回覆刪除不能去坐坐那種船嗎?
籮筐船可以坐啊,有這種行程。據說坐上去很容易頭昏。
回覆刪除